Para Los Eclipse Turbo De 2g

wepa mi gente Tu que tienes un eclipse o talon turbo FWD o AWD , dinos las modificaciones que tienes, los inventos que tienes, cuantos caballos de fuerza le has sacado a tu carro y como, cuanto haces en el 1/4 de milla? si sabes setiar bien estos carros escribenos tu telefono o como conseguirte ahi que hacer un corillo pa ir a la pista y quedarnos con el canto. comparte lo que sabes con todos aqui. :bow: ECLIPSE :bow: :lol: __________________ Yo tengo un Eclipse 95' GS-T. En verdad lo unico que le he hecho es tuberia desde el bajante 2 1/2 con pipa, regulador de galleta 4a1 y nada mas. Nunca lo he llevado al Dyno pero en la pista estoy en los 14.9 a 92MPH y estoy esclochaito. Espero que con un buen cloche baje un poco menos ??? . Gracias :tego: :bow: DSM :bow: __________________ A typical Stage 1 setup will raise your DSM's power output to about 300hp at the crank. That can equal mid 13's or possibly high 12 second 1/4 mile times on the track with practice. Keep in mind that not everyone will achieve the same results. The condition of the car will have a huge impact on your results. Free Mods (or inexpensive) Intercooler Air Flow Improvements You can access the intercooler from the passenger side wheel well. You'll notice vents in the splash shield for the intercooler. There's two things that can be done - make the vents larger, or simply cut out a square and bolt up some screen material to allow more air to pass through. It would be a good idea to clean out the intercooler at this point also. Stage 1 Parts List -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Step 1: Intake Pipe and Filter A performance intake filter will help throttle response and help all future mods achieve maximum performance. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Step 2: Aftermarket Boost Gauge The stock boost gauge is simply inaccurate. To avoid severe engine damage when increasing boost levels, an aftermarket unit is mandatory. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Step 3: Blow Off Valve The stock 2G BOV can't hold high boost levels. In order to avoid leaks when turning up the boost, it's necessary to replace the factory BOV with either a stock 1G unit or an aftermarket unit. To avoid possible problems with idle, a BOV that recirculates back into the intake is recommended. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Step 4: Boost Controller In order to raise boost levels, you'll need a boost controller. Whether it be a manual or electronic unit will depend on your budget. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Step 5: Cat-back Exhaust System A 3 inch, high flow exhaust system will help generate more power. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Step 6: High Flow Cat/Straight Pipe Replace the factory catalytic converter with a larger, higher flowing unit. For off road use, simply bolt up a straight pipe in it's place - of course, this is obviously not street legal. A 2.5 inch unit will be sufficient for a Stage 1 setup, but a 3 inch version will be needed if future plans include a Stage 2 setup. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Step 7: High Flow Downpipe The factory downpipe is very restrictive and should be replaced with a larger, better flowing unit. For Stage 1, a 2.5 inch downpipe will do. If future plans involve a Stage 2 setup, consider a 3 inch downpipe. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Step 8: Exhaust Manifold The exhaust manifold can be ported, or can be replaced with a tubular style header that flows better. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Step 9: O2 Sensor Housing The downpipe bolts up to a 90 degree elbow called the O2 Sensor Housing. This is the last restriction in the exhaust system. The stock unit can be ported out, or you can simply buy a better flowing unit. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Step 10: Fuel Pump The stock fuel pump will not be able to supply the needed fuel for long - especially if the boost level is raised. A high flow unit will be needed. It's also a good idea to re-wire the fuel pump for better fuel pressure. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Step 11: Intercooler Piping The rubber intercooler piping should be replaced with better flowing solid pipes. Some replacements will come with a larger throttle body elbow (which is needed also). The turbo outlet elbow should be swapped out for a larger unit as well. Please note that if a Stage 2 setup is in the plans, this upgrade may not be necessary as the intercooler piping will likely be routed differently. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Step 12: Turbo Upgrade The smaller stock 2G turbo (the T25) is running at it's max. In order to gain more power, a larger turbo is necessary. You'll need a T28 or 16G turbo in order to achieve the 300hp goal. A Mitsubishi 20G, a Mitsu-Garrett hybrid, or a full Garrett setup will produce even more power. However, these options are overkill for the 300hp goal. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Step 13: Performance Clutch With more power on tap, the stock clutch probably won't last that long. It will start to slip, especially in the higher gears. This means it's time for a high performance clutch. __________________ :lol: Deberia darme bochorno, pero aqui va. Mits. Eclipse GS-T 1997 Mods: Filtro Arospeed, Dejon Intake, T3/T4 @18psi, Spearco Core FMIC, Apexi 3" N1 Downpipe & Cat-Back, RC Engineering 550cc, Aeromotovie FPR, Walbro 255 hp fuel pump, Apexi S-AFC & AVC-R, BF Goodrich Drag Radials, ACT 2600 pressure plate w/street clutch, Autometer A/F boost & EGT gauges, OBD-II Pocketlogger. Mejor tiempo: 13.840@103mph pump gas Mejor millaje: 13.880@105mph C-16 Caballaje: ?? __________________ machinis tienes mas o menos lo mismo q yo, creo que deberias estar en 13 bajitos talvez sea seteo. 97 ECLIPSE GST done mods: suspension: eibach coilovers koni adjustable shocks 18" niche wheels dunlop 9900series tires brakes: stock exhaust: 4" pipe 3" testube back 3" downpipe stock manifold intake: k&n filter kt eclipse 92 manifold fuel: walbro 255lph pump holley 550cc injectors aeromotive 1:1 FPR apex S-AFC ignition: stock msd ignition wires ngk sparkplugs turbo kit: mitsu 20g turbo deltagate ext. wastegate super big frontmount IC custom 2 1/2 IC pipes hks sequential blowoff manual boost controler engine: 4g63t eagle rods full floating pistons stock pistons balanceshaft eliminator kit 1g head fidanza sprokets miscelaneous: EGR blockoff plate canister eliminated blowoff to the atmosphere battery relocated gauges: EGT autometer vacuum/boost autometer rich/lean autogage oil pressure autogage volmeter ampro watertemp ampro interiors: custom carbon fiber dash kit custom shift lever bucket adjustable racing seats indash manual boost control exterior: blitz front bumper supra side skirts custom rear bumper lips halo angel projectors carbonfiber hood solo wiper mod carbonfiber tail lamps no se cuanto hace en la pista pero espero que 13 bajitos a goma de calle y en los 12 bajitos a goma lisa. __________________ 96 ECLIPSE GS done mods: 17" ArosSpeed RS-GS wheels brakes: stock exhaust: 2" pipe stock manifold intake: k&n filter kt fuel: apex S-AFC ignition: stock turbo kit: non engine: 420A stock interiors: Indigloo gauge exterior: 97-99 side skirts carbonfiber tail lamps __________________ Eclipse Spyder Gst 99 D Nunka lo e llevado a una pista ni se cuanto caballe tiene me imagino que 210 pq esta stock algun dia lo llevare :dev: __________________ Gente e leído muchas modificaciones buenas aquí, pero no e visto en ellas a menos que lo hallan obviado, los puntos del motor solidos. Yo tendo un Eclipse FWD Turbo y creanme que hace la diferencia los puntos solidos, recuerden que al ser Fwd con mucho hp raspan goma bastante y dificil a veces de controlar(con practica se mejora), con los puntos solidos el carro agarra mejor y tira para adelante mas fuerte pues tiene mas pegada. con esto el motor no gira tanto estando mas quieto evitando el wheel hopping, ademas que los cambios cuando los tiras entran mas facil.(se siente un poco de mas vibracion en el carro pero vale la pena). D